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Cutting Board

Recently,
my wife and I were in a large national chain bath and kitchen store. We saw some large end grain cutting
boards that really caught our eyes. The problem was they were around 80 dollars and they weren’t the best size for the
location we would place it. Of course I stated I could make it with the lumber I already have in the shop and it wouldn’t
cost us anything. The wife rolled her eyes and said “great I guess I will see it in a couple years”. Well as she
threw the gauntlet down I thought I better jump on it right away.
I did some checking and found the most recommended woods seemed to be maple and walnut and I happened to have a small
supply of each. I decided to make it nice and thick so I could resurface it when necessary and it should last many years.
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The first step is to make sure all the lumber I will use is the same thickness. I send all
the wood I will use through the thickness planer. The actual thickness isn’t important if I add a piece to a row that
is thicker it will create a gap in the next row. I just run the pieces through until they are all contacting the cutter head
consistently.
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To cross cut the pieces to size I place a scrap piece of wood against the fence of my table saw.
I then set the fence at 2 inches from the scrap piece.
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Then I move the scrap wood back from the level of the blade and clamp it to the fence. I screw an extension to my miter
gauge.
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I then place the pieces for my cutting board against the miter gauge and slide it up against the wood fence. This way
I can make repetitive cuts without the wood binding up against the fence.
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Then I laid
all the pieces out without glue. I adjusted the pieces so all the joints were staggered for better strength. I just kept adding
pieces and rows until I had roughly the desired size.
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I glued up several layers at a time and clamped them together using a board on each side to pull all the small pieces
together evenly. I used some sheets of waxed paper to keep them from sticking to my table. I glued them in a jig I use
to assemble cabinet doors. This kept it square and aligned on one end. The other end I ran wild.
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When I glued up the pieces I
made it in two sections. The reason for that was I wanted to send it all through the thickness planer to even out the surfaces.
The end grain of the wood is very hard and even with a belt sander it can take a long time. But my planer will only take 15-½
-inch wide material. I ran the two pieces through the planer with squared end first. That way any tear out was at the end
that was run with a wild edge as that end would be cut off anyway. Then I glued the two pieces together giving me a rough
blank that just needed to be trimmed to size.
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I trimmed the cutting board to size using my panel-cutting jig for the table saw. This is a jig designed to ride in
the miter gauge slots of the saw with a stop at a right angle to the saw blade. With this jig I only need one straight edge.
I simply rotate it 90 degrees every cut to come out with all the sides squared up.
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With the blank cut to size I give it a final sanding. I started with the belt sander and finished up with a random
orbital sander.
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I added a ¼-inch round over to all the edges with the router.
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I
didn’t want the cutting board to slide around when in use so I added a soft rubber pad on the bottom at each corner.
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I finished it with a liberal coating of mineral oil. I put half a dozen coats on the first couple days. I will continue
to put another coat on each week for another month or so and then maybe a coat every month.
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